PFW AW17

  • STYLE SPY
  • |
  • 23 January 2017

Welcome the rise and acceptance of streetwear as high fashion. From miner-style dungarees and washed denim jackets to quilted sweatshirts and white trainers, your favourite laid-back weekend looks seem to be a key inspiration for Parisian designers. While Andrea Crews gives the dungarees a larger than life, oversized effect, Off-white and Louis Vuitton revive the ’80s denim jacket — the latter in collaboration with American skateboarding brand Supreme. Dries Van Noten’s rolled-up jeans, brown leather boots and logo sweat is a look that will easily take you from work to the bar on a Friday.

Next season, smartwear gets a new shape, and it’s called boxy. Moving away from fitted styles that contour your body, and giving a high-five to smart-casual balance, business suits have added extra length and room to their frame. Go for a free-flowing ’90s style double-breasted coat paired with comfort-fit trousers as done by Balenciaga, Lemaire and OAMC. Or get inspired by Facetasm’s more street take on the white shawl-collar tuxedo. One thing’s for sure — you’d rather wear these new suits with trainers than oxfords.

If there’s winter, it's bound to have boots around. And for Parisian designers the chunky punk styles seem to be walking into their AW17 closets. Reinforcing the edgy look, straps and lace fastening meet metallic details and hardware. Look for mid-high styles in polished leather like Icosae, Boris Bidjan and Yohji Yamamoto, or make a stride for grunge like Julius.

Need trousers that can be zipped up to reduce the flare, or a jacket that can be strapped on with panels to transform into an avant-garde outerwear? Continued interest in layering took designers towards the path of creating clothes that easily shift shapes, adding novelty to fashion and styling. Take a cue from Julius, Walter Van Beirendonck, Facetasm and Y/Project.

A fabric mostly reserved for evening and formalwear gets a more casual update for AW17. Trousers get more relaxed and a fit akin to lounge pants, as seen on models sent out by Balenciaga and Facetasm. While Haider Ackermann stuck to a skinny fit, he detailed his version of velvet trousers with embroidery and paired them with a vest and open cardigan, instead of a well-cut blazer. Even Walter Van Beirendonck’s velvet blazer saw more contemporary treatment, with its sleeves taking inspiration from the cape. Keep a lookout for jewel shades but with a more youthful appeal.

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